Edward Rayne

Early life and career Edward Rayne was born in the United States – his mother Meta (née Reddish) came from New York State and met his British father Joseph Rayne in Italy, where she was training to be an opera singer. Joseph Rayne was heir to the shoe side of the family business, which was founded in 1889 as a theatrical costumier by Henry and Mary Rayne and located close to The Old Vic. Opening a store in Bond Street in 1920, Joseph cashed in on the trend for shoes as a fashion (rather than simply practical) item and by 1928 the company had become a PLC. He was excused from active service in the war because of this, and began a long apprenticeship at H. & M. Rayne's factory in King's Cross. His obituary in The Times noted that he would arrive at 7.45 am every morning to learn the 200 steps required to make a pair of high-end shoes. Rayne's 1954 review to shareholders noted that the company's three shops, Rayne and Delman in Bond Street and Rayne in Regent Street had produced record profits.

1960s developments Edward Rayne expanded the Rayne business in the early 1960s, beginning an association with Genesco in the United States and also buying a 49 per cent stake in the British company of John Plant and its subsidiary Butlers. Rayne still designed shoes himself – his ebony brown patent leather design was mentioned in a Times report about the autumn fashion show of IncSoc members. Rayne was, by then both chair and associate member of the group of elite London couturiers. He was appointed a member of the Export Council for Europe in 1961.

Rayne enlisted the help of leading stage designer Oliver Messel for the new Delman shoe store that opened in Old Bond Street in 1960. This was a radical retailing concept for the time because, whereas upmarket shoe stores had been discreet enclaves dressed with curtains and pot plants, with shoes consigned to underground stores, this refit incorporated display stands and cases, some of them illuminated, to show off hundreds of pairs of shoes. An article by Alison Settle in The Observer noted that: "Mr Messel and Mr Rayne are at one in thinking that shoes to buy should be as easy to see and handle as books in a library". He continued the Rayne brand's reputation for luxury; Princess Margaret's white satin wedding shoes (along with the Queen and Queen Mother's shoes) were all Rayne models.

By 1960, the shoes designed by Roger Vivier for Dior were made at Rayne's UK factory and personally supervised by Edward Rayne. While high-end and haute couture were part of the company's pedigree, Edward Rayne always had an eye on the more mainstream direction of fashion – he was the first to display Mary Quant shoes in his flagship store, placing them alongside those of Roger Vivier. He also gained a foothold in the mass market, ensuring the company had an interest in both H.E. Randall and Lotus chainstores.

1970s and beyond Edward Rayne continued to work with haute couture brands in both the UK and overseas. By 1970, Rayne shoes were included in the Molyneux collection – with The Guardian reporting that it was thought to be the first time a French couture house had used branded British shoes. In autumn of that year, Rayne opened its own store in Paris – said to be the first shoemaker to do so since Lobb. Rayne was also designing shoes for other French designers, including Nina Ricci and Lanvin, while in the UK it had recruited designers such as Bill Gibb.

Debenhams was sold to Burton Group in 1985, and two years later Rayne was acquired by the businessman David Graham. Edward Rayne then resigned and focused on his other roles. He was recruited by Marks & Spencer as a consultant for its growing shoe range. He was knighted in 1988 for services to the fashion industry – France had awarded him its equivalent (a chevalier) four years earlier.

IncSoc and British Fashion Council In 1960, Rayne became chairman of IncSoc, the first chair not drawn from the world of couture garment design – significant since normally IncSoc was presided over by a fashion designer, not an accessories maker.

Death and legacy Edward Rayne was killed in a fire at his home in Bexhill, East Sussex on 7 February 1992. He was 69. His wife Phyllis was injured but survived. Both his sons continued the family association with shoemaking. His obituaries not only singled out his business acumen but also his good humour. Colin McDowell said that almost uniquely for a personality in the centre of the fashion industry, no journalist ever had a bad word to say about him. Rayne shoes are held in several archives, including the Metropolitan Museum in New York and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. A portrait of Rayne by Howard Coster forms part of the National Portrait Gallery archive.