Ceil Chapman

Ceil Chapman (née Mitchell; February 19, 1912 – July 13, 1979) was an American fashion designer who worked in New York City from the 1940s to the 1960s. She created glamorous cocktail and party dresses, and worked with celebrity clients including television and movie actresses.

Designs and career

After two years of college, she obtained a position in the workroom of a large Fifth Avenue store in New York. Within three years, she was made head of the studio, staying for eight years. Around 1940, Chapman was involved in a short-lived business called Her Ladyship Gowns, formed with Gloria Morgan Vanderbilt and her sister, Thelma Furness, Viscountess Furness.

Chapman patented numerous designs between 1954 and 1960.

Awards

Ceil Chapman was given the Coty American Fashion Critic's Award in 1945, for her creative contribution to the American fashion picture. In 1956, she won the "Best of Informals" award from the Swiss Fabrics group.

Chapman worked at 530 Seventh Avenue in New York's Garment District during the 1950s. A photo portrait of the designer at work in her studio appeared in a 1956 advertisement for Western Union. Chapman also lent her name to promotions for products including Cadillac automobiles and Maidenform girdles.

Ceil Chapman was reportedly Marilyn Monroe's favorite fashion designer. Other celebrity clients included Deborah Kerr, Grace Kelly and Aretha Franklin. Chapman worked on Marie McDonald's wardrobe for the 1963 film Promises! Promises! In 1952, Betty Furness appeared at a function wearing a Ceil Chapman dress. Ms. Chapman was also there, wearing an identical dress. She reportedly "sashayed back to the powder room, checked the jacket part of the dress, removed the big organza bow at the neckline, and returned to her sirloin looking absolutely different."

By November 1968, Ceil Chapman Inc. was located at 200 Park Avenue. At that time, the company registered with the Securities and Exchange Commission to offer shares of common stock, proposing "to engage principally in the styling, designing, manufacture, distribution and sale of women's wearing apparel, accessories and novelties under the name 'Ceil Chapman,' and to license others to use the Ceil Chapman name." Some 1960s dresses bear the label "CEIL CHAPMAN / for Miss Winston". Several of Chapman's designs, including a 1948 wedding dress, a late 1940s dress, and three 1950s cocktail dresses, are in the collection of the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. These designs show Chapman's interest in the draping and layering of fabric to highlight the female form.

Ceil Chapman's designs have been compared with those of Anne Fogarty, Nettie Rosenstein, and Norman Norell. Chapman was among those who succeeded in adapting Christian Dior's "New Look" for relatively affordable cocktail wear targeted toward the American ready-to-wear market. Her labels featured the words "ORIGINAL / Chapman / DESIGN", "a Chapman original", or simply, "Ceil Chapman". She wore exclusively black during the day, and almost always wore white for evening functions. She married her third husband, Tom Rogers, in December 1951.

Chapman died at Calvary Hospital in the Bronx after a two-year illness with lung cancer on Friday, July 13, 1979. At the time, she had been living on the Upper East Side of Manhattan. Her obituary in the Staten Island Advance reported that she had not been informed of the death of her husband, Tom Rogers, just a few days earlier. At the time of her death, she was survived by her son, Peter, and two sisters.