Oliver Perry-Smith

Oliver Perry-Smith (October 11, 1884 in Philadelphia – May 13, 1969 ) was an American rock climber, mountaineer and skier who moved to Dresden in 1902 and lived in the area until he returned to the USA in 1914. His mother was Katherine Crosby Beale, the daughter of Truxtun Dixon Beale (1820-1870), whose grandfather was Thomas Truxtun, one of the first six commanders that President George Washington appointed to the new United States Navy. His relatives also included the newspaper magnate Edward “Ned” Beale McLean who married Evalyn Walsh McLean, the owner of the Hope diamond.

In total "he made more than 90 ascents in Saxon Switzerland, 33 of which are rated VI or above; there were 32 first ascents, 13 solo climbs and 36 additional ones on which he led". Despite its name, this long route was led by Perry-Smith (because, as explained in biographical article in AAJ 1964, "Fehrmann was the first to sign the summit book and later he was assumed by later climbers to be a leader"

He was also active in the Western Alps, his first visit there was in 1903 when he climbed with Josef Knubel of St Niklaus (who did not attain his guide’s license until the following year). that route is still graded as TD. His "repeated ascents include also Weisshorn, Matterhorn, Dent Blanche, Zinalrothorn, Wellenkuppe, Obergabelhorn, Kleine Zinne".

Skiing

Beside his achievements in climbing, he was an accomplished skier who competed in both cross-country-skiing and ski-jumping

Personal life In October 1911 he married his wife Agnes (née Adolph) at Schreiberhau (a town which is now in Poland), where their first son was born, also named Oliver Perry-Smith. Another son, Dixon, married the world figure skating champion Hedy Stenuf.

Oliver Perry-Smith was elected an Honorary Member of the American Alpine Club.

There are a number of anecdotes depicting Perry-Smith as a rather unusual character: When people doubted his ascent of 'Perryriss', he climbed that route again and wrote in big letters 'Perry' on the rock. (it can still be read today). He owned a Bugatti race car and got in trouble with the police several times for driving fast and hazardously. He was once arrested and then committed for disturbing the peace by threatening people with a pistol in Bad Schandau (a small town close to the sandstone towers that he knew so well).