Gyalzen Norbu

Gyalzen Norbu (1917-11 May 1961) was also known as Gyaltsen Norbu, he made the first ascent of Manaslu whilst climbing with a party of Japanese mountaineers in 1956. He became the first person to climb two eight-thousanders: Makalu in 1955 and Manaslu in 1956.

Eight-thousanders Gyalzen Norbu took part in the French Himalayan expedition to Makalu in 1955 as Sirdar. The team made the first ascent of the mountain on 15 May 1955 (via the north face and east ridge), Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy were the first to reach the summit. The following day and Gyalzen Norbu reached the summit. Another four French members of the team summited on 17 May.

He climbed on Manaslu with Japanese parties in every year from 1952 to 1956

In 1956 he was awarded a Tiger Badge by the Himalayan Club for his part in the 1955 French expedition to Makalu, his 'Himalayan Club Number' was 145.

Death In 1961, Gyalzen Norbu took part in a Japanese expedition to Langtang Lirung in the Langtang valley of Nepal. The expedition attempted an ascent by the Lirung Glacier and the east ridge. On the 11th of May he and the Japanese climbers K. Morimoto (expedition leader) and K. Oshima were buried by an avalanche in Camp III.