Wolfgang Güllich

Climbing career Güllich quickly became one of the best climbers in his region, making the first free ascent of the aid route, Jubiläumsriss (VII-), at the age of 16.

In 1984, Güllich would begin a series of years where he would create several hardest new grade sport climbs in the world – the most of any climber in history. Güllich co-authored with Andreas Kubin a 192-page German book on training for sport climbing called Sportklettern heute (1986), and was an early advocate of bouldering as a way to improve his technique and build performance, saying "the hardest routes are extended boulder problems"; Güllich's advice would often extend beyond the physical, and was a source of notable quotes including: "A man doesn't go to drink coffee after climbing, coffee is integral part of the climbing". Climbing said of their apartment, "[it] became one of the most significant addresses in free-climbing history. It was essentially an open-house for the best sport climbers of the 1980s, people like Ben Moon, Ben Masterson, Ron Fawcett, Ron Kauk and John Bachar", and adding: "in an era before the Internet, their place was a hub of ideas and information".

In 1990, he met nurse Annette Favery whom he married one year later; Annette was photographed belaying him on his famous first free ascent of Action Directe on 14 September 1991; which happened just five days after their wedding.

On 29 August 1992 Güllich fell asleep at the wheel of his car and veered off the autobahn between Munich and Nuremberg as he made his way home from an interview. Two days later on 31 August 1992 he died in a hospital in Ingolstadt, never having regained consciousness. He was buried in Obertrubach.

Awards and honours In 1985, Güllich, received the Silbernes Lorbeerblatt, Germany's highest sports award along with Kurt Albert, and .

Notable ascents

Redpointed routes Action Directe – Waldkopf, Frankenjura (GER) – 1991. First Ascent and world's first-ever XI route. Considered the "benchmark" 9a and an important and historic route. – Frankenjura (GER) – 1987. First Ascent and world's first-ever XI- route. Kanal im Rücken – Frankenjura (GER) – 1984. First Ascent and world's first-ever X route. Grand Illusion – Sugar Loaf, Lake Tahoe, CA (United States) – 1982. First repeat of Tony Yaniro's historic 1979 route.

Big wall climbing routes

Riders on the Storm (Paine Towers, Patagonia, VI 5.12d A3) – 1991. Yugoslavian route (Nameless Tower, Karakoram, 5.12) – 1988. First fully free ascent on the tower.