Nicolai Užnik

Climbing career Bouldering In 2023, Užnik climbed Emotional Landscapes in Maltatal, Austria. Originally graded , Užnik upgraded the boulder to due to a broken foothold which made the climb harder than previous ascents. The same month, he became the first to repeat Unison, an by Aidan Roberts.

Užnik nearly flashed Forgotten Gem, an in Chironico, Switzerland, in January 2025, completing the climb on his second try.

In February 2025, Užnik announced the first ascent of Mount Doom, which he graded , the top grade in bouldering at the time. He had worked on the project starting in 2021, and was only able to perform the individual moves by 2024. The month before his ascent, he fell from the top of the route and twisted his ankle. Despite not having previously climbed 9A, Užnik stated in an interview after he was "quite certain" of the grade, as he had experience attempting Alphane, a consensus 9A in Switzerland. (which he later downgraded to 8C), then came within a single move of a flash of La Force Tranquille . He completed the climb the next day.

Competition climbing

In 2020, Užnik won his first national title at the Austrian Bouldering Championships. He won again in 2022 and 2023, where he narrowly beat training partner Jakob Schubert.

Užnik finished fourth in the bouldering event at the 2022 World Games. Later that year, Užnik won gold in bouldering at the European Climbing Championships. After coming 3rd in qualifying, he finished with 49.6 points, ahead of Sam Avezou (49.5) and Adam Ondra (49.0). Užnik's victory came despite recently recovering from a COVID-19 infection, which had harmed his fitness.

At the 2023 Climbing World Championships, Užnik finished fifth in bouldering.

Notable ascents Boulder problems Mount Doom – Maltatal (AUT) – February 2025. First ascent, grade confirmed by Jakob Schubert.

Bügelbrett– Maltatal (AUT) – April 2026. First Ascent, Variation of Bügeleisen 8C Full Gem – Chironico (SUI) – January 2026. First Ascent, SitStart to Forgotten Gem 8C

Brain Rot – Magic Wood (SUI) – November 2025. Originally an 8C+ - dwongraded by Uznik Forgotten Gem – Chironico (SUI) – January 2025. 2nd Go Unison – Brione (SUI) – November 2024, first repeat. Emotional Landscapes – Maltatal (AUT) – March 2023. Originally an 8C, upgraded due to a broken hold and then later downgraded again by Adam Ondra & Jakob Schubert Bügeleisen – Maltatal (AUT) – December 2020.

American Gangster – Zillertal (AUT) – 8 November 2024, flash.