Adam Ondra

Adam Ondra (; born February 5, 1993) is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing. In 2013, Rock & Ice described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondra is the only male athlete to have won World Championship titles in both disciplines in the same year and is one of the two male athletes (alongside Sorato Anraku in 2023) to have won the World Cup series in both disciplines (lead climbing in 2009, 2015, and 2019 and bouldering in 2010).

At age 13, Ondra redpointed his first graded sport route. Rock & Ice noted that by 2011, he was "onsighting 5.14c's by the handful", and by 2013, had "more or less repeated every hard route in the world—easily". traditional climbs, and boulder problems. Because of his achievements, Ondra is often referred to as the world's strongest climber.

Climbing career Early years

Ondra started climbing at the age of six; his parents are climbers, and they shared their passion with him. In 1999, at age six, in Rovinj, Croatia, Ondra climbed a route with bolts every half meter. He quickly rose to fame, appearing in climbing magazines as his accomplishments became both more impressive and frequent: In 2001, (at age eight), he onsighted routes. In 2002, (at age nine), he onsighted and redpointed . In 2003, (at age ten), he onsighted . In 2004, (at age eleven), he onsighted and redpointed . In 2005, (at age twelve), he onsighted . In 2006, (at age thirteen), he managed to redpoint his first , Martin Krpan at Misja Pec.

Competition climbing

In 2007 and 2008, he won the IFSC World Youth Championship, category Youth B. In 2009, at age sixteen, Ondra competed for the first time in the Lead Climbing World Cup, finishing ahead of Spanish Patxi Usobiaga and Japanese Sachi Amma. In 2010, he won the Bouldering World Cup, beating Austrian climber Kilian Fischhuber and Tsukuru Hori from Japan, becoming the first athlete in history to win the World Cup in both disciplines (lead and bouldering).

Ondra failed to qualify for the 2020 Summer Olympics at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, as he was disqualified for accidentally toeing a bolt during the lead climbing portion of the combined event. However, at the Olympic qualifying event in Toulouse later that year, he managed to secure a place in the Olympic Games, despite falling ill after reaching the finals of the event.

In April 2021 Ondra won gold in the bouldering discipline at the IFSC World Cup in Meiringen, Switzerland. This marked his 20th World Cup gold medal. Ondra finished in sixth place at the 2020 Summer Olympics in the Boulder, Lead and Speed Combined and also sixth place in the 2024 Summer Olympics Boulder and Lead Combined.

Rock climbing

During a March 2011 trip to Spain, Ondra became the second-ever person to onsight a route, after Patxi Usobiaga. On October 4, 2012, Ondra redpointed Change in the Hanshelleren Cave, Flatanger Municipality, Norway, the world's first-ever route to receive a grade of .

On February 7, 2013, Ondra ascended La Dura Dura in Oliana, Catalonia, Spain, his second after Change. He worked on this project with American climber Chris Sharma, and the first ascent took Ondra nine weeks. On February 9, 2013, two days after La Dura Dura, Ondra succeeded in the second ascent of the route, Fight or flight, first climbed by Sharma in 2011. On July 9, 2013, Ondra realized the second-ever onsight of a route in history, after Alexander Megos, with the ascent of Cabane au Canada in Rawyl, Switzerland.

On November 21, 2016, Ondra completed the second free ascent of the 1,000-metre granite route, The Dawn Wall, a 32-pitch grade big wall climbing route at El Capitan in the Yosemite Valley. The route was widely regarded as the hardest big wall climbing route in the world. Ondra led every pitch and completed the project in 8 days (the first ascenders, Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson alternated leads, and spent 19 days on the wall).

On April 23, 2017, Ondra set a new highpoint for Black Diamond's The Project indoor sport route in Stockholm, Sweden, which is believed to be the hardest in the world.

On September 3, 2017, after about 4 years of dedicated work and training, Ondra climbed Silence, in the Hanshelleren Cave in Flatanger Municipality, Norway. Silence was the world's first-ever route to have a proposed grade of .

Rankings

Climbing World Cup Discipline 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2021 2022 2023 2024 Lead 1 3 57 - 11 3 1 23 27 31 1 31 19 22 35 Bouldering 15 1 - - - 24 3 - - - 2 3 - 20 32 Speed - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Combined 1 1 - - - 2 1 - 65 - 2 - - - - Zvěřinec (Menagerie) - Holštejn (CZE) - November 20, 2022 - First ascent - Adam claims this as his hardest 9b+ and therefore the second hardest route of his life. Vasil Vasil - Sloup v Čechách (CZE) - December 4, 2013 - First ascent La Dura Dura - Oliana (ESP) - February 7, 2013 - First ascent Eagle-4 - St. Léger (FRA) - February 13, 2018 - First ascent One Slap - Arco (ITA) - November 13, 2017 - First ascent Move Hard - Flatanger (NOR) - July 10, 2017 - First ascent (link-up of two neighboring routes; through first crux of Move into second crux of Silence, at the time known as Project Hard) Lapsus - Andonno (ITA) - April 20, 2017 - Second ascent Queen Line - Laghel (Arco, ITA) - April 19, 2017 - First ascent Mamichula - Oliana (ESP) - February 8, 2017 - First ascent Robin Ud - Alternativna stena - October 5, 2016 - First ascent Stoking the Fire - Santa Linya (ESP) - February 19, 2016 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route C.R.S. - Mollans sur Ouvèze (FRA) - November 2, 2015 - First ascent First Round First Minute - Margalef (ESP) - February 3, 2014 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route Move - Flatanger (NOR) - August 20, 2013 - First ascent. Ondra graded the route "9b/9b+, or just hard 9b". Repeated on June 17, 2019 by Seb Bouin, who later on upgraded the route to 9b+. Iron Curtain - Flatanger (NOR) - August 3, 2013 - First ascent Fight or flight - Oliana (ESP) - February 9, 2013 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2011) Chilam Balam -Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) - April 13, 2011 - Second ascent (however Bernabe Fernandez's first ascent is not confirmed) Chaxi Raxi - Oliana (ESP) - March 27, 2011 - First ascent of Chaxi direct start La Capella - Siurana (ESP) - February 16, 2011 - First ascent Golpe de Estado - Siurana (ESP) - March 13, 2010 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2008) El Maquinista - Montanejos (ESP) - November 12, 2023 - First ascent Chicken Nose - Isenfluh (SUI) - November 4, 2023 - First ascent Fantazija! - Ter (SLO) - October 1, 2023 - First ascent A je to! - Vranjača (CRO) - August 31, 2023 - First ascent Bombardino - Bus de la Stria (ITA) - February 23, 2022 Trofeo dell'Adriatico - Bus de la Stria (ITA) - January 27, 2022 Furia de Jabali - Siurana (ESP) - January 19, 2022 Kout pikle - (Moravsky Kras, CZE) - December 18, 2021 - First Ascent Molekuly - (Moravsky Kras, CZE) - October 26, 2021 - First Ascent Bohemian Rhapsody - Velká (CZE) - April, 2020 - First Ascent Qui - Geisterschmiedwand (AUT) - September 19, 2019 - Second ascent Catxasa - Santa Linya (ESP) - February 10, 2019 Czech trip - Mavrovi Anovi (MKD) - October 19, 2018 - First Ascent High Line - Kanjon Tijesno (BiH) - September 25, 2018 Sacrifice - Echo Canyon (CAN) - July 23, 2018 - First ascent Stone Butterfly - Herculane (ROU) - May 15, 2018 - First ascent Underground Dreaming - Arco (ITA) - February 24, 2018 - First ascent Super Crackinette - Saint-Léger du Ventoux (FRA) - February 10, 2018 - Flash La Castagne - Saint-Léger du Ventoux (FRA) - February 2, 2018 Meiose - Charmey (CHE) - January 27, 2018 One Punch - Arco (ITA) - November 13, 2017 Naturalmente - Camaiore (ITA) - April 21, 2017 - First ascent Ultimatum - Massone (Arco, (ITA) - April 19, 2017 - third ascent Three Degrees of Separation - Céüse (FRA) - July 27, 2015 - second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2007) Realization - Céüse (FRA) - July 22, 2014 - tenth ascent Ini Ameriketan - Baltzola (ESP) - May 9, 2014 Hell Racer - Hell (NOR) - September 22, 2013 - first ascent Kangaroo's Limb - Flatanger (NOR) - September 21, 2013 - first ascent Torture Physique Integrale - Gastlosen (CHE) - July 7, 2013 - first ascent Power Inverter - Oliana (ESP) - January 25, 2013 - second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2010) Thor's Hammer - Flatanger (NOR) - July 8, 2012 - first ascent (now downgraded to 9a) Jungle Boogie - Céüse (FRA) - June 7, 2012 - first ascent Perlorodka - Holstejn (Moravsky Kras, CZE) - September 6, 2011 - first ascent Overshadow - Malham Cove - May 16, 2011 - Second ascent of Steve McClure's route Chaxi - Oliana (ESP) - March 21, 2011 - first ascent of Chris Sharma's project Obrint el sistema - Santa Ana (ESP) - March 14, 2011 - first ascent of Daniel Andrada's project L'étrange ivresse des lenteurs - Céüse (FRA) - September 4, 2010 - First ascent Goldrake - Cornalba (ITA) - April 6, 2010 - first ascent Marina Superstar - Domusnovas (ITA) - October 20, 2009 - first ascent Corona - Frankenjura (DEU) - June 7, 2009 - second ascent of Markus Bock's route (2006) Papichulo - Oliana (ESP) - February 24, 2009 - second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2008) Open Air - Schleierwasserfall (AUT) - November 17, 2008 - second ascent of Alexander Huber's route (1996) La Rambla - Siurana (ESP) - February 10, 2008 - sixth ascent

On-sight The east face of Monkey Face at Smith Rock, containing Just do it (8c+), onsighted by Ondra in 2018. When it was first ascended by Tribout, Just do it was considered the hardest route in the USA. Water World - Osp (SLO) - Nov 2022 - TCT - Gravere (ITA) - July 11, 2014 Il Domani - Baltzola (ESP) - May 3, 2014 Cabane au Canada - Rawyl - July 9, 2013 - Second-ever 9a onsight in history Just Do It - Smith Rock (Oregon, USA) - November 12, 2018 C'est la vie - Alternatívna stena (SVK) - October 5, 2016 Super Plafond - Volx (FRA) - July 6, 2014 Chambao - Baltzola (ESP) - May 7, 2013 Pure Imagination - Red River Gorge (USA) - November 1, 2012 Golden Ticket - Red River Gorge (USA) - November 1, 2012 Muy Verdes - Flatanger (NOR) - July 11, 2012 Eye of Odin - Flatanger (NOR) - July 8, 2012 Deltaplane Man Direct - Entraygues (FRA) - May 31, 2012 Bella Regis - Bus De Vela (ITA) - April 7, 2012 L'Avaro - Tetto di Sarre (ITA) - July 13, 2011 La Rubia - Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) - April 13, 2011 Blanquita - Oliana (ESP) - March 27, 2011 Mind Control - Oliana (ESP) - March 20, 2011 Powerade - Vadiello (ESP) - March 9, 2011 Bizi Euskaraz - Etxauri (ESP) - March 7, 2011 Kidetasunaren balio erantsia - Etxauri (ESP) - March 6, 2011 - Second-ever 8c+ onsight in history after Bizi Euskaraz by Patxi Usobiaga in 2007 Aktion Talon - Höllental (AUT) - June 29, 2013 Into the Wild - Jaén (ESP) - March 16, 2013 Terapia de Grito - Cuenca (ESP) - February 13, 2013 El Calvario del Sicario - Cuenca (ESP) - February 10, 2013 Nordic Flower - Flatanger (NOR) - July 9, 2012 Scoglio de Capri - Bus De Vela (ITA) - April 7, 2012 Iluzija - Kotecnik (SVN) - April 5, 2012 5 Uve - Arco (ITA) - June 27, 2011 Bat Route - Malham Cove (GBR) - May 16, 2011 Carbunco - Archidona (ESP) - April 23, 2011 Kalliste - Archidona (ESP) - April 23, 2011 Fuck the police - Etxauri (ESP) - March 6, 2011 Dures Limites - Céüse (FRA) - August 10, 2010 Smoke - Pierrot beach (FRA) - August 5, 2010 Home Sweet Home - Pierrot beach (FRA) - August 5, 2010 Guère d'usure - Claret (FRA) - January 29, 2010 Super Samson - Claret (FRA) - January 29, 2010 Una Vida Nomada - Covolo (ITA) - April 21, 2009 Nagay - Covolo (ITA) - April 21, 2009 2009 2010 and 2011.

He climbed 293 boulder problems between and . Brutal Rider - Moravian Karst (CZE) - May 25, 2020 - First ascent Ledoborec - Moravian Karst (CZE) - May 24, 2020 - First ascent Gioia - Varazze (ITA) - December 6, 2011 - Second ascent of Christian Core's boulder (2008) Terranova - Holštejn (Moravian Karst, CZE) - November 10, 2011 - First ascent, traverse Pohár Nesmrtelnosti (Prodloužení) - Sloup (Moravian Karst), (CZE) - November 23, 2022 - First ascent Vrtule - Holštejn (Moravian Karst, CZE) - October 13, 2017 - First ascent, Kráter - Holštejn (Moravian Karst), (CZE) - June 24, 2017 - First ascent Emotional Landscapes - Maltatal, (AUT) - March 11, 2026 - Flash Celestite - Val Bavona, (SUI) - February 28, 2026 - Flash Captain Nemo - Val Bavona, (SUI) - February 28, 2026 The Lion's Share - Brione, (SUI) - February 25, 2026 - Flash Big Nose - Val de Bagnes, (SUI) - November 2025 Foundation's Edge - Val de Bagnes, (SUI) - November 12, 2025 - Flash Ziqqurat - Gaby, (ITA) - November 5, 2025 Autofix - Sloup (Moravian Karst), (CZE) - July 20, 2025 Flow State - Val daone, (ITA) - August 27, 2024 Sviní Ponor - Sloup (Moravian Karst), (CZE) - April 26, 2020 - First ascent Iceberg - (Moravian Karst), (CZE) - April 23, 2020 Nunavut - Sloup (Moravian Karst), (CZE) - November 15, 2019 - First ascent Pučmeloun - Sloup (Moravian Karst), (CZE) - November 15, 2019 - First ascent Ghost Rider - (Moravian Karst), (CZE) - September 24, 2019 - Second ascent Cháron - Petrohrad (Mlýnský vrch), (CZE) - October 15, 2011 - First ascent Practice of the Wild - Magic Wood (CHE) - October 1, 2011 - Chris Sharma's boulder (2004) Pata ledovce - Holštejn (Moravian Karst, CZE) - September 6, 2011 - First ascent Monkey Wedding - Rocklands (ZAF) - August 14, 2011 - Third ascent of Fred Nicole's boulder (2002) From The Dirt Grows the Flowers - Chironico (CHE) - November 30, 2010 - Dave Graham's boulder (2005) Big Paw - Chironico (CHE) - November 29, 2010 - Third ascent of Dave Graham's boulder (2008)

Multi-pitch routes

The Dawn Wall - El Capitan (USA) - 3,000 feet (915 meters) tall - 32 pitches, at least two of which graded . Described as the hardest big wall in the world. January 14, 2015 - Redpointed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson in 19 days, after 7 years of mapping. November 21, 2016 - Redpointed by Adam Ondra in 8 days, after a few weeks of practicing the already mapped ascent. Mora Mora - Tsaranoro Atsimo - October 10, 2010 - First free ascent Bravo Les Filles - Tsaranoro Kelly (MDG) - October 7, 2010 Tough Enough Original - Karambony (MDG) - October 4, 2010 - First free ascent Tough Enough - Karambony (MDG) - September 30, 2010 - First free ascent Hotel Supramonte - Gole di Gorroppu (ITA) - October 18, 2008 - First onsight ascent Ali Baba - Paroi Derobée (Aiglun, FRA) - 2008 - Second ascent WoGü - Rätikon (CHE) - July 26, 2008 - First free ascent of Beat Kammerlander'''s route (1997) Zub za zub - Rätikon (CHE) - July 29, 2007 - First free ascent Silbergeier - Rätikon (CHE) - July 27, 2007

Filmography

The Fanatic Search - 2009 - Produced by Work Less Climb More and Laurent Triay Progression - 2009 - by Josh Lowell - Produced by Big UP ProductionsThe Wizard's Apprentice - 2012 - Directed by Petr Pavlíček - Produced by Bernartwood - 110' Reel Rock Tour 7 - 2012 - Produced by Big UP ProductionsLa Dura Complete: The Hardest Rock Climb in the World - 2014 - Part of Reel Rock 7 by Big Up Productions Change - 2014 - Directed by Petr Pavlíček - Produced by Bernartwood - Silence—The Story of Adam Ondra and the World's First 5.15d - 2018 - by Bernardo Giménez - Produced by AO Production s.r.o. Ondra is also producing his own video series about qualifying and competing in the 2020 Summer Olympics, released on YouTube, called Road to Tokyo.

Books JAROŠ, Martin; ONDRA, Adam. Adam Ondra: lezec tělem i duší. Albatros, 2019. 200 p. ONDRA, Adam; GIMENEZ, Bernardo; BÍBA, Lukáš. Adam Ondra Book''. AO Production, 2019. 223 p.

Awards 2009 2008 Salewa Rock Award 2010 Salewa Rock Award 2011 Salewa Rock Award 2013 Salewa Rock Award