Matty Hong

Matthew Jacob Hong (born September 4, 1991) is an American rock climber, filmmaker and photographer. In 2018, he became the fourth American to climb a route graded at .

Early life and education Hong was born in Boulder, Colorado in 1991. He began climbing at an early age, brought to climbing spots in Rifle Canyon as a baby by his father Steve Hong and mother Karin Budding, who were both pioneering rock climbers. He joined a climbing team in middle school and began climbing more seriously at age 15, when he climbed his first and routes in Rifle.

After earning a Bachelor of Fine Arts in Film Production at the University of Colorado Boulder, Hong climbed his first route, Papichulo in Oliana, Spain, in March 2016. and in 2015, he bolted and completed his first route, La Cucaracha in Wicked Cave, also in Rifle.

In May 2018, he climbed the graded sport climbing route, Fight or Flight, in Oliana, Spain, becoming the fourth American to climb the grade after Chris Sharma, Ethan Pringle and Daniel Woods.

In October 2021, Hong completed the second-ever ascent of Flex Luthor, first sent by Tommy Caldwell in 2003. Hong suggested the grade be revised to from after multiple holds broke making the climb harder. In November 2022, Jonathan Siegrist made the third repeat of Flex Luthor and downgraded it back to .

In May 2023, Hong made the 20th ascent of Sharma's 2001 route, Realization/Biographie , in Ceuse. He has also competed in the senior climbing circuit, making the final at the 2011 IFSC Lead World Cup event in Boulder, finishing sixth.

Notable ascents

Redpoint

Fight or Flight, Oliana, Spain, 2018 Flex Luthor, Fortress of Solitude, Colorado, 2021. La Rambla, Siurana, Spain, 2017 Papichulo, Oliana, Spain, 2017 Joe Mama, Oliana, Spain, 2017

First ascent

Bad Girls Club, Rifle, Colorado, 2011 Planet Garbage (5.14d), Rifle, Colorado, 2014 Stocking Stuffer (5.14d), Rifle, Colorado, 2017

La Cucaracha, Rifle, Colorado, 2015 Apple Juice Flood, Red River Gorge, Kentucky, 2016 Sweet Tooth, Red River Gorge, Kentucky, 2016

Onsight

Logical Progression, El Gigante, Mexico

Mind Control, Oliana, Catalunya

Bouldering

Warrior Up, Lincoln Lake, Colorado, 2012 Dreamtime, Ticino, Switzerland, 2020

Competition climbing Sixth Place, 2011 IFSC Lead World Cup, Boulder CO

Filmography Break on Through (2017), director, featured on Reel Rock 12