Kazuya Hiraide

was a Japanese ski mountaineer, Alpine climber, and professional mountain cameraman. Hiraide won the Piolet d'Or mountaineering award on four occasions.

Climbing career Hiraide became a serious mountain climber after joining a mountaineering club at his university. In 2001, he reached the eastern summit of Kula Kangri (7,381m) in Tibet. His list of accomplishments includes first ascents, reaching summits without oxygen, and skiing from mountain peaks. In 2009, he scaled the previously unclimbed southeastern wall of Kamet (7,756m) in India, and with his climbing partner Kei Taniguchi, became the first Japanese to receive the 17th Piolet d'Or Award, the "Academy Award" of mountaineering. He also won three other Piolet d'Or Awards with climbing partner Kenro Nakajima for their first ascent on an uncharted route with Shispare in 2017, Rakaposhi in 2019 and Terich Mir in 2023. He also received the Japan Sports Award, sponsored by The Yomiuri Shimbun, in 2001 and 2009.

On July 28, 2024, it was reported that Hiraide died from in fall while attempting an ascent of the western face of K2 together with Kenro Nakajima. Two figures were spotted by a rescue helicopter which failed to land next to them and described them as "motionless".

In 2024, Hiraide's wife Joko Hiraide accepted his 2023 posthumous Piolet d'Or award on his behalf.

Selected results

Ski mountaineering 2009: 1st, Asian Championship, relay (mixed team), together with Mase Chigaya, Sato Yoshiyuki and Suzuki Keiichiro 4th, Asian Championship, individual 5th, Asian Championship, vertical race

Mountain climbing

2001 Kula Kangri East Peak (7381m), Pakistan, first ascent Cho Oyu (8201m) China, summit, ski down from top 2003 Kunyang Chhish (7852m), Pakistan, first try, west face 2004 Golden Peak (7027m), Pakistan, new route, north west ridge, summit Lila Peak (6200m), Pakistan, new route, east face, summit Kunlun Mustag (6355m), China, new route, summit 2005 Mustag Ata (7564m), China, second ascent, east ridge, summit, ski down to west side Shivling (6543m), India, new route, north face to west face, summit 2007 Shispare (7611m), Pakistan, first try, north east face 2008 Gasherbrum II (8035m), Pakistan, summit Broad Peak (8047), Pakistan, summit Kamet (7756m), India, new route, south east face, summit 2009 Gasherbrum I (8068m), Pakistan, Summit Gaurishankar (7134m), China, first try, east face 2010 Ama Dablam (6856m), Nepal, first try, north west face 2011 Everest (8848m), Nepal, south side, summit Naimonanyi (7694m), China, new route, south west ridge, summit, south peak (7200m), first ascent, first try, south east face 2012 Khan Tengri (7010m), Kazakh, north side, summit Shispare (7611m), Pakistan, first try, south west face 2013 Everest (8848m), Nepal, summit Diran (7266m), Pakistan, west ridge, summit Shispare (7611m), Pakistan, first try, south west face 2014 Everest (8848m), Nepal, south side Hkakabo Razi (5881m), Myanmar, first try, north ridge 2015 Everest (8848m), China, north side Api (7132m), Nepal, north side, summit 2016 Everest (8848m), China, north side, summit 2017 Shispare (7611m), Pakistan, new route, north east face 2019 Rakaposhi (7788m), Pakistan, new route, south face 2023 Tirich Mir (7708m), Pakistan, new route, north face

Awards 2008: Piolet d'Or, together with for the first ascent of the South-West face of Kamet (7756m, India) in alpine style 2017: The 26th Piolet d'Or Award and The 12th Piolet d'Or Asia Award, together with Kenro Nakajima for the first ascent of the North-East face of Shispare (7611m, Pakistan) in alpine style. 2019: The 28th Piolet d'Or Award, together with Kenro Nakajima for the first ascent of the south face of Rakaposhi (7788m, Pakistan) in alpine style. 2024: The 32nd Piolet d'Or Award, together with Kenro Nakajima for the first ascent of Secret Line on the north face of Terich Mir (7708m, Pakistan).