Jim Bridwell

Jim Bridwell (July 29, 1944 – February 16, 2018) was an American rock climber and mountaineer, active from 1965 in Yosemite Valley, but later in Patagonia and Alaska. He was noted for pushing the standards of both aid climbing and big wall climbing, and later alpine climbing. He wrote numerous articles on climbing and developed several important pieces of aid climbing equipment. Bridwell was an apprentice to Royal Robbins and Warren Harding, and later the unofficial leader of the Stonemasters.

Climbing career

Bridwell is credited with over 100 first ascents (FA) in Yosemite Valley, in addition to conducting the first one-day ascent of The Nose on El Capitan on May 26, 1975, with John Long and Billy Westbay. He founded Yosemite National Park's Search and Rescue Team (YOSAR), spearheading many rescues. He was a leading force in the evolving techniques of aid climbing and an innovator and inventor of widely used and copied aid climbing equipment, including copperheads and bird-beaks.

Personal life

Bridwell resided in Palm Desert, California, until his death on February 16, 2018, from complications of hepatitis C He had contracted the disease while receiving a tattoo in Borneo during the 1980s.

Notable ascents 1965 Entrance Exam (II 5.9), Arch Rock, Yosemite, California with Chuck Pratt, Chris Fredericks and Larry Marshik 1966 Braille Book (III 5.8), Higher Cathedral Rock, Yosemite, California, with Chris Fredericks, Joe Faint and Brian Berry. 1967 South Central (V 5.10a A2), Washington Column, Yosemite, California, with Joe Faint 1969 Triple Direct (VI 5.9 A2), El Capitan, Yosemite, California, with Kim Schmitz 1971 Aquarian Wall (VI 5.9 A4), El Capitan, Yosemite, California, with Kim Schmitz 1971 New Dimensions (5.11 A1), Arch Rock, Yosemite, California, with Mark Klemens 1971 Nabisco Wall, The Cookie, Yosemite, California, 1970 Vain Hope (V 5.7 A3), Ribbon Falls, Yosemite, California with Royal Robbins and Kim Schmitz 1975 Wailing Wall, Tuolumne Meadows, California with Dale Bard and Rick Accomozo 1975 The Nose (5.13+ or 5.8 C2), El Capitan, Yosemite, California, with Billy Westbay, and John Long, first one-day ascent in 17:45 1975 Pacific Ocean Wall (VI 5.9 A4), El Capitan, Yosemite, California, with Bill Westbay, Jay Fiske and Fred East 1978 Sea of Dreams (VI 5.9 A5), El Capitan, Yosemite, California with Dale Bard and Dave Diegelman 1979 Northwest Face, "The Ship Prow" Kichatna Spire, Alaska Range with Andy Embick 1981 Dance of the Woo Li Masters, East Face of The Moose's Tooth, Ruth Gorge, Alaska (VI 5.9 WI4+ A4, 1520m) with Mugs Stump 1982 South Face, "Sapphire Bullets of Pure Love" Pumori, Nepal with Jan Reynolds and Ned Gillette 1987 The Big Chill, Half Dome, Yosemite, California with Peter Mayfield, Sean Plunkett and Steve Bosque 1991 North Face (repeat) The Eiger, Bernese Alps, Switzerland 1997 Wyoming Sheep Ranch (VI 5.9 A5), (repeat) El Capitan, Yosemite, California with Giovanni Groaz 1998 Heavy Metal and Tinker Toys (VI 5.9 A5), El Capitan, Yosemite, California with Boulos Ayad and Tyson Hausoeffer 1998 Plastic Surgery Disaster (VI 5.8 A5), (repeat) El Capitan, Yosemite, California with Mark Bowling and Giovanni Groaz 1999 The Useless Emotion (VII 5.9 WI4 A4), The Bear's Tooth, Ruth Glacier, Alaska with Terry Christensen, Glenn Dunmire, Brian Jonas and Brian McCray May 3–21, 1999 1999 Odyssey, Grand Capucin(VI 5.9 A5), Mont Blanc (French Alps), with Giovanni Groaz 1999 Dark Star (VI 5.10 A5), El Capitan, Yosemite, California with Giovanni Groaz 2001 The Beast Pillar, (V11 5.10b WI4+ A5) The Moose's Tooth, Buckskin Glacier, Alaska with Spencer Pfinsten 2001 Welcome to Afghanistan (VI 5.9 A4), El Capitan, Yosemite, California with Giovanni Groaz 2002 Pointless Connection (VI 5.9 A4+), Yosemite Pointless, Yosemite, California with Giovanni Groaz 2004 Old Guides Variation (VI 5.8 A3), El Capitan, Yosemite, California with Jackson Marsten and Giovanni Groaz

Publications