Jerry Moffatt

In 1984, on his 21st birthday, Moffatt flashed Chimpanzodrome at Saussois, and then did the world's first onsight of a with Pol Pot at Verdon. During 1985 to late 1986, Moffatt was largely out with a compressed nerve injury (initially mis-diagnosed as tendonitis), that required surgery and rehabilitation. Moffatt continued to travel widely, repeating Punks In The Gym in 1992 in Australia, establishing Canada's first , The Big Kahuna, in 1993 in Ontario, and freeing routes such as Evolution in 1995 at Ravens Tor. and finished third overall,Moffatt only attended four of the seven events of the , winning one (Leeds in Britain) and coming second in the other three (La Riba in Spain, Bardonecchia in Italy, and Lyon in France), In a 2009 interview, Moffatt noted that his initial competition form was poor until he began to study the mental side of competing, saying, "I found out how your mind works under pressure and immediately after reading that book I competed in Leeds and won my first competition".

Bouldering

Moffatt had been an early adopter of bouldering from the outset of his career, saying in a 2009 interview, "My early boulder problems weren't publicized, no one seemed to be interested in them at all". The pair would feature in other bouldering films, including Stick It (2001), and Stone Love (2001).

Free soloing

Moffatt is also known for his free soloing of challenging British traditional climbing routes, telling The Guardian in 2011, "You have to have an insane confidence in your own ability to go soloing". In 1983, Moffatt was particularly active in pushing his limits, soloing Scarab (E6 6b) at Stoney Middleton, Right Wall (E5 6a) at Dinas Cromlech, and days before he climbed Master's Wall at Clogwyn Du'r Arddu, free soloing the neighboring Great Wall (E4 6a), The Boldest (E4 5c), and Curving Arete (E4 5c). won the Grand Prize at the 2009 Banff Mountain Book Festival, and was shortlisted for the 2009 Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature. In 2015, it was listed in Climbing magazine's "33 Must Read Climbing Books", saying, "If you ever want to be inspired to train, just read any chapter. What a hardman!".

In 2017, Moffatt completed his second book, Mastermind: Mental training for climbers, focused on sports psychology for sport climbers, and built on the methods Lanny Bassham outlined (earlier).

The Foundry In 1991, Moffatt and Paul Reeve opened The Foundry Climbing Centre ("the Foundry"), in Sheffield, and was the first of its type in the UK with leading, top-roping, bouldering, and interchangeable holds. They were originally financially supported by Wild Country, which owned 51%, but Moffatt and Reeve later bought out Wild Country's share, and now own it equally.

In a British context, Moffatt (and contemporaries such as Moon and Dawes) carried on the legacy of Peter Livesey and Ron Fawcett. In 2006, Moffatt told the BBC, "When I started climbing I wanted to do dangerous climbs, in my mid-20's I wanted to do really hard climbs with ropes, and then when I got to my late-30's it got shorter and I got more obsessed with trying to do the hardest move I could possibly do... It might be just one or two moves". – in memory of Toby, who was a keen gardener and wished to plant such a tree on his return to England). Equinox (5.12c) Joshua Tree 1983 USA flash Scarab (E6 6b, 7b+) Stoney Middleton – 1983 – solo Right Wall E5 6a, Cemetery Gates E1 5b, Ivy Sepulchre E1 5b, Left Wall E2 5c, Memory lane E3 5c, Cenotaph Corner E1 5c, Foil E3 6a 1983 All solo in a day. Ulysses (E6 6b) – Stanage – 1983 – First ascent, one of the last greats to be climbed. Void (E4 6a), Grim Wall Direct (E1 5b), The Weaver (E2 5c), Vector (E2 5c), Extraction (E2 5c),Geireagle (E3 5c) 1983 All solo in one day. Oyster (8a) August 1983 Pen Trwyn Wales. First ascent of world's first Sport 8a. Master's Wall (E7 6b) – Clogwyn Du'r Arddu – 1983 Masterclass (8a) 1993 Pen Trwyn Wales first ascent. Great Wall E4 6a- The Boldest (E4 5c), Curving Arete (E4 5c) 1993 Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Wales all solo. Ekel (9+) 1983 First ascent and first 9+ in Germany. The Face (8a+) – Altmühltal – 1983 – First ascent, considered the first 8a+ (5.13c) in history. Heisse Finger (7c) Germany 1983 world's first 7c to be on-sighted. Super Imjin (7c) 1984 Japan, on-sight of country's hardest route Pol Pot (7c+) 1984 Verdon, world's first 7c+ to be on-sighted. Pappi on sight (8a) 1984 Verdon France first ascent The Messiah (E6 6c) 1984 Peak District first ascent, hardest gritstone route at time. Revelations (8b) Raven Tor – 1984 – First ascent Our Father (E4 6a), Kingdom Come (E5 6b), Dies Irae (E2 5c), Special K (E4 6a), Scoop Wall (E3 5c), Kelloggs (E5 6b), Wee Doris (E4 5c), Pickpocket (E4 6a) 1984 Stoney Middleton all solo in a day The Phoenix (5.12d) 1984 Yosemite on-sight Midnight Lightening (V9) 1984 Yosemite fourth ascent and first to do in a day Lost Arrow Spire (5.12d) 1985 Yosemite first ascent with Ron Kauk. Filmed live for Wide World Of Sport. Estimated 30 million viewers. Le Rage de Vivre (8b+) Buoux – 1987 – Second ascent of Antoine Le Menestrel's route (1986) Le Minimum (8b+) Buoux 1987 – Third ascent of Marc Le Menestrel's route (1986) La Spectre des Surmutant (8b+) Buoux second ascent – 1988 Scarface (8b+), White Wedding (8b+), To Bolt Or Not To Be (8b+), 1988 first to repeat all the 8b+'s Smith Rocks U.S.A Stone Love (8b+) Frankenjura 1988 First ascent Seynes 1988 competition France 1st place Leeds 1989 competition England 1st place. First-ever round of World Cup La Riba 1989 competitions Spain 1st place equal with Simon Nadin Cologne 1989 competition Germany 1st place Madonna di Campiglio 1989 competition Italy 1st place Bercy 1990 competition France Paris 1st place Brianscon1990 competition France 1st place London National 1990 competition 1st place Maurienne Masters 1990 competition 1st place. The first multi-discipline event, red point, boulder, speed, and on-sight. Liquid Ambar (8c) Lower Pen Trwyn 1990 First ascent. Progress (8c+) Kilnsey U.K 1995 First ascent Seans Roof 1995 (8c) Blackwell Dale U.K first ascent Nelsons Column 1996 London England 4th ascent Samson 1997 (E8 7b) Burbage South UK First ascent, hardest gritstone route at the time The Ace (8B) Stanage 2002 First ascent