Franz Oppurg

Franz Oppurg (17 September 1948 – 9 March 1981) was an Austrian mountain climber. Having climbed from a young age, he became a mountain guide and rescuer, and performed a number of first ascents in the winter of mountains in his native Karwendel. He was also the first climber to achieve a solo ascent of Mount Everest.

Biography Oppurg was born on 17 September 1948 in Steinach am Brenner, in Tyrol. His father died at 33, when Franz was young, and the family, including a stepfather, moved to Wattens. From a young age, Oppurg was a climber. After working as a butcher, in 1975 he joined the mountain division of the army. In the 1970s he achieved the first winter ascents of the Lamsenspitze and other mountains in Karwendel. reached the summit from the North side without using supplementary oxygen.

It is possible that Mick Burke, climbing solo, reached the summit of Everest via the Southwest face, as part of the 1975 British Mount Everest Southwest Face expedition led by Chris Bonington; however, Burke did not return from his attempt after a snowstorm hit the mountain. After Oppurg, Reinhold Messner was the next solo summiter; he climbed Everest alone, without oxygen, from the North side. Dr. Peter Hackett (member of the 1981 American Medical Research Expedition led by John B. West), on 24 October 1981, was the third; like Oppurg, he climbed with oxygen from the South Col to the summit.

Death On 9 March 1981, Oppurg and his longtime friend Rudi Mayr went climbing on the Hechenberg, in Karwendel. Mayr said that Oppurg, who he said had always been an elegant climber, climbed VI degree routes as if they were graded IV. They stayed at the top for a long while, and according to Mayr, Oppurg expressed doubts about his abilities, said he had no real friends, and wondered which direction to take in life. Mayr comforted him, but during the descent, while Oppurg was ahead of Mayr, Oppurg fell and died.