Jeanne Toussaint

Jeanne Toussaint (; 1887–1976) was a Belgian-born French jeweller and fashion designer who exerted considerable influence on jewellery design after Louis Cartier appointed her Director of Fine Jewellery in 1933. She is remembered in particular for her panther designs which first appeared as a decoration for a Cartier watch in 1914 and became the theme of several creations for the Duchess of Windsor, including an onyx bracelet in 1952. Toussaint also specialized in creations inspired by the jewellery of the Moghuls and the Maharajas.

Early life Born in Charleroi, Belgium, on 13 January 1887, Jeanne Rosine Toussaint was the daughter of Edouard Victor Toussaint (1837–1894) and his wife Marie Louise née Elegeer. Together with her older sister Charlotte, she was raised in a family of lacemakers who made her aware of fashion and style from a young age. After her father died while she was still a small child, her mother fell for a German who became a member of the household, contributed to the business but abused the two daughters. They both decided to leave home, Charlotte moving to Paris while Jeanne, now 15, sought the protection of Pierre de Quinsonas, a French aristocrat who had moved to Brussels to escape military service. Hoping to marry her, he took her to Paris but his family refused permission. Nevertheless, he found an apartment for her in the centre of the city, introducing her to French society. She soon became acquainted with Coco Chanel, the illustrator George Barbier and, most importantly, Louis Cartier. She also created works based on dragonflies, ladybirds, birds of paradise, lions and tigers and an impressive brooch of a flamingo, commissioned by the Duke of Windsor for his wife in 1940. Another of her specialities was jewellery inspired by the Mughuls and the Maharajas of India.

Jeanne Toussaint retired from Cartier in 1970 and died in Paris on 7 May 1976.