Armand Charlet

The Aiguilles du Diable. Charlet made the first ascent of these pinnacled rock peaks, as well as the first traverse, which included a celebrated move on L'Isolée, the isolated pinnacle just left of centre.

Armand Charlet (9 February 1900, Argentière – December 1975) was a French mountaineer and mountain guide.

Alpinism Charlet was amongst the most celebrated mountaineers and guides of his era. Alain de Chatellus regarded him as the "undisputed leader and lighthouse of his generation," Claire Engel commented, and Wilfrid Noyce stated that "It was amusing to note how Armand's pre-eminence was recognized by the other guides and hut-keepers. His word was law." He specialised in ascents of the Aiguille Verte in the Mont Blanc massif, which he climbed 100 times by fourteen different routes, including seven first ascents, He also made the first ascent of the wildly pinnacled Aiguilles du Diable. In 1928 he made the first attempt on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses, one of the six great north faces of the Alps, via the Croz Spur. His party did not use pitons or any artificial devices and did not progress far up the face.

As a guide he also made first ascents with his clients; for example, on 4 August 1928 Charlet led Miriam O'Brien and Robert L. M. Underhill on the first traverse from the Aiguilles du Diable to Mont Blanc du Tacul, during which he overcame a Grade V pitch on L'Isolée with a jammed ice axe (today a piton is in place).

He taught at ENSA, the French national school of ski and alpinism, for many years and had a great influence on several generations of high-mountain guides. He was technical director of the school for twelve years from 1945. 1932, 22 July, first route on the north face of the Aiguille du Jardin (with Jules Simond and P. Dillemann) 1938, 25 February, first winter traverse of the Aiguille du Dru (with Camille Devouassoux)

Awards and commemoration Charlet was an Officier de la Légion d'honneur. The French government awarded him two gold medals for his work in mountain rescue. The Col Armand Charlet (3,998 m) on the Aiguille Verte is named after him. Together with Paul Dillemann he made the first ascent of the col from the north.