Amir Mehdi

Amir Mehdi (sometimes spelled Amir Mahdi, and also known as Hunza Mehdi; 1913–1999) was a Pakistani mountaineer and porter known for being part of the team which made the first successful ascent of Nanga Parbat in 1953, and of K2 in 1954 with an Italian expedition. He, along with the Italian mountaineer Walter Bonatti, are also known for having survived a night at the highest open bivouac - - on K2 in 1954.

Nanga Parbat (1953)

In July 1953 a German-Austrian team embarked on an expedition to Nanga Parbat. The expedition was organized by the half-brother of Willy Merkl, Karl Herrligkoffer from Munich, while the expedition leader was Peter Aschenbrenner from Innsbruck, who had participated in the 1932 and 1934 attempts. Hermann Buhl, one of the european team members, made it to the top and became the first person to reach the summit. He was assisted by two high altitude porters from Hunza, Amir Mehdi and Haji Baig. They later helped Buhl during his descent, when he was caught by frostbite and lost his crampon.

K2 (1954) During the Italian expedition, Amir Mehdi and Walter Bonatti were stranded by Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli, who wanted to prevent Bonatti from reaching the summit, and were forced to huddle on an ice ledge overnight at , the highest ever open bivouac at the time.

Life and career Mehdi left mountaineering after the K2 attempt. The Italian government claimed it awarded him a pension, but his son denied this. Amir served briefly as a government servant of Pakistan, before living out the rest of his modest life in his hometown Hassanabad.

Mehdi died of old age in 1999, in Hunza.

Awards and titles The Italian government awarded him the rank of cavaliere. Mehdi also received the Italian civilian medal, Al Valor Civile. Mehdi was given the title of 'Hunza Tiger' for the services rendered during the ascent of Nanga Parbat in 1953.